About Expedition
Nepal's Himalayas is renowned all over the world for their supremeness. Out of the fourteen highest peaks of the world Nepal is the queen of 9 peaks including Nuptse, Annapurna, Dhaulagiri, Pumori, Choyu, Manaslu, Lhotse, Baruntse and the world's highest Mt. Everest. There are numerous other smaller peaks too. With such an amazing mountainous vistas, Nepal stands as every mountaineer's paradise. It is the land of adventure and thrill where one can immerse oneself in the beauty of the magnificent peaks and at the same time test one's courage and skill by challenging the summit of Everest and other peaks. Nepal first came into focus in the international arena, when Tenzing Norgay Sherpa, Nepal and Sir Edmund Hillary, New Zealand conquered Mt. Everest in 1953. Since, then there has been countless number of expeditions heading off to the top of high and mighty Himalayas. Since, eight of the world's highest peaks lie within Nepal's boundaries, Nepal has been a centre of attraction for the mountaineers. Most of the peaks over 8000m high in Nepal have already been conquered during 1950's, the golden decade of climbing. Now it's all about making and breaking records. A strenuous expedition, the Everest was climbed first on 1953 and has since been climbed with an average of 1000 mountaineers per year. Proper acclimatization and previous knowledge of mountain climbing along with a very good physique are the basic requirements of this expedition. Due to the high fatality rate and dangers of avalanches and windy outbreaks, metal alertness and determination are absolutely necessary. Everest can be accessed both via Tibet and Nepal but the route via Nepal is comparatively easier.
Considered to be an extremely interesting climb, Dhaulagiri is climbed by lesser mountaineers than other mountain peaks are, due to the technical difficulty it possesses. Dhaulagiri is climbed basically from the northeast ridge but can be climbed from any other direction as well, due to the many ascendable facets it possesses.
Setting up four camps does the climb up this wonderful mastiff via the northeast ridge. The Advance Base Camp is established at 5300 m but is used only for depositing gear due to the fear of imminent danger of avalanches. Camp 1 is established at 5900 m east of ABC which is followed by a steep rocky climb to Camp 2 at 6400 m. Camp 3 lies east to Camp 2 at a height of 7200 m and is reached by climbing through steep snow. Camp 3 to Camp 4 at 7500 m is considered to be typically dangerous and technically difficult.
The expedition to Manaslu is considered to be an endeavor to practice before climbing the Everest itself. This expedition commences form Arughat from Kathmandu and moves into Soti Khola, Maccha Khola and Jagat. Form Jagat, the trail moves into Dyang, Namrung, Sama Gaon and then finally to the Manaslu Base Camp at an altitude of 4665 m. The base camp is subjected to strong winds and snowfall and the Larkya Glacier is present near it. Camp 1 is set at 5500 m and requires crampons for climbing. Camp 2 is present at a height of 6300 m and requires the passage through steep crevasses and massive icefalls.
